Sultanahmet
Monuments, and the discipline to walk ten minutes for lunch.
Istanbul neighborhoods
Istanbul neighborhoods, chosen for eating
Istanbul is a city of neighborhoods separated by water, and where you eat matters more than what you order. Six areas cover almost every meal worth planning: Karaköy, Galata, Beşiktaş and Sultanahmet on the European shore, Kadıköy and Üsküdar on the Asian side. Each page below covers what to eat there, how to get there, and what to skip.
How to choose a neighborhood
Two rules hold across the city. First, food quality tends to fall as you get closer to a major monument, because those restaurants serve people who will never return. Second, the ferry is not a detour — crossing the Bosphorus takes fifteen to twenty-five minutes and puts you in the neighborhoods where Istanbul actually eats.
| Neighborhood | Shore | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Sultanahmet | European | Sightseeing days, Turkish coffee breaks, Lunch near the bazaars |
| Karaköy | European | Breakfast, Baklava and Turkish coffee, Meyhane dinners |
| Galata | European | Wine bars, Small modern kitchens, Afternoon coffee |
| Kadıköy | Asian | Market walking, Turkish breakfast, Meyhane dinners |
| Beşiktaş | European | Cheap and good lunches, Fish, Charcoal grills |
| Üsküdar | Asian | Sweets and milk puddings, Tea gardens, Sunset views |
European shore
The historic peninsula and the hillside districts across the Golden Horn — trams, funiculars and steep streets.
Asian shore
Fifteen to twenty-five minutes by ferry, and the part of the city most short trips skip. Do not skip it.